Wednesday 22 April 2009

Tour de Normandy 2


After Rouen, a short train ride to La Havre and i found a friend! My Italian friend Tiziano, fellow traveler and my company/human gps unit for the rest of the trip. We spent Easter day walking La Havre, eating Nids, drinking a little apple juice in the park and then proceeded South. Ulitmate destination was Granville, then Mont St Michel. La Havre is a huge port town that takes care of the shipping for a good portion of the european union. There are many war memorials on the Normandy coast from the last world war. The most notable is in Bayeux outskirts. There are many buildings here that bear the marks of shrapnel damage in thier marble or foundation stones.
La Havre has one of the biggest squares in France, thanks to the extensive bombing and rebuilding the next 50 years afterwards. The Seine that runs through Paris and Rouen empties here in La Havre, or does it start here? Unsure, but the Seine on its connection with the atlantic/english channel, is spanned by the largest bridge in france. The Pont de Normandy. Only shorter than le tour eiffel by a few feet. It was thrilling to drive across and I can only assume that it took a pretty penny to design but it was worth every french franc. On the opposite side of the bridge is a quaint little town,village really, Honfluer. Worth visiting if you have the time. We didn't, but I've heard good things. After getting across the bridge we made our way to Caen, then further south to Avranches, after Avranche we met some italians that just so happened to be going to Granville and we rode with them to the top of Granville, looking at the harbor while the tide was out and the boats were resting on the sea floor.
high tide>
We couch surfed with a lovely lady and her sailor just above the bay here. We ate crab and spent two days with them in their apartment they were just getting ready to move out of. Talk about a kind heart. Granville was fresh and cool, full of sun and sea air. A perfect place for the in- between time, spring before the summer transition.

Tuesday 14 April 2009

Tour de Normandy


William the Conquerer would be a little upset. If he knew that Normandy was now in the hands of the Franks, subject to Parisian rule. Completely understand why ol' Will. Turns out the Normands were a hard country to conquer in the 10th century . Visiting the capital city of Normandy, Rouen, I was able to visit some sights that I remember learning about in High School French class. It was the most nostalgic city I've never visited! First up in Rouen, Le Grand Horlage...which was built in 14th century and ran perfectly until 1928. It covers the street directly that leads you to the best places to visit, The Cathedral of Notre Dame (every city has a notre dame) built in the 12th century on 4th century foundations.
Monet painted this gothic cathedral many times in his famous studies of light. So Monet bunked here for quite a while and used the light in Normandy for the other worldly impressionistic masterpieces. The cathedral also has the Dukes of Normandy in thier burial repose best. I attended Easter vigil here and was quite moved by the lumiere processional and mass inside a darkened cathedral with only the candles of the other faithful guiding your way and listening to latin chants sung by a choir.
This is not only the city of Dukes and churches and famous painters but also of a saint. Jeanne. Jeanne D'Arc. Joan of Arc. It was here that she was burned at the stake for being a witch, heretic, there were lots of words being thrown around, mostly though she saved her country and helped reinstall the monarchy of France. Which at that time, was a good thing. The Normands of course were about the same as the English so once captured she was shown little mercy, held in a large turet which still stands today, given a brief trial and burned here. There is a beautiful, non-traditional church built at this site. So much of France has been destroyed and rebuilt during wars and invasions, that there is always a part of the old with the new. Joan's church has 14th century stained glass from a destroyed cathedral during the air raids of WWII. This church was only very recently built in 1970 and Joan has been publicized as a saint since the 1920s.

"O Jean sans sulpechure et sans portrait toi qui savais que le tombeau
des heros est le coeur des vivants"